Panos at the Lake

[Isac]

#1 - Sap making striped patterns on the Laeliae Gums.
1/1600 sec | f/4 | ISO 200 | 28 mm | Manual | Evaluative Metering

#2 - Shady Trees
1/4000 sec | f/3.5 | ISO 250 | 18 mm | Manual | Evaluative Metering

#3 - Sun flare through the gums.
1/1250 sec | f/3.5 | ISO 100 | 18 mm | Manual | Spot Metering

#4 - Shady area for the dog to run amok.
1/640 sec | f/3.5 | ISO 100 | 18 mm | Manual | Spot Metering

#5 - More water than ever after our record breaking November rainfall.
1/1250 sec | f/4 | ISO 125 | 35 mm | Manual | Spot Metering

[HansE]

I was having a chat with some people (pixel peepers) that refused to use ny aperture below f16 and were even dubious about using f16 because they have heard about diffraction. I showed them 200%images that showed no difference that I could see between F5.6 F11 and F22. But they then rationalised that away and said they would use focus stacking it was easy. I think you have shown that lot they dont need to spend money on anything but a telephoto lens. All you have to do is stich pictures together untill you get the view you want.

[Isac]

Everyone has there own way I suppose. I edited the thread and included the EXIF data so you can see my settings. Most I use a fast shutter to freeze the leaf movement and also on the lake to freeze the ducks swimming around. the apertures were all low at 3.5 to 4 and 18mm to 35mm. I works for me. I would only use f:16 when experimenting with Zone Focus.

[K1W1]

Diffraction is a result of lens design not aperture per se. One lens might suffer from diffraction at f16 and another may not. When talking lenses you can only have rules that apply to specific units not generically to every lens. I'm not sure how diffraction and stitching images have gotten mixed. Stitching images is adding to the width or height or both to increase the overall size of the image not to increase the front to back details in focus which is aperture related. These images were taken with wide angle lenses not telephotos.

[Ozzie_Traveller]

G'day fellas

Hmmmmmmm? exposure data

#1 - Sap making striped patterns on the Laeliae Gums.
1/1600 sec | f/4 | ISO 200 | 28 mm | Manual | Evaluative Metering

#2 - Shady Trees
1/4000 sec | f/3.5 | ISO 250 | 18 mm | Manual | Evaluative Metering

#3 - Sun flare through the gums.
1/1250 sec | f/3.5 | ISO 100 | 18 mm | Manual | Spot Metering

#4 - Shady area for the dog to run amok.
1/640 sec | f/3.5 | ISO 100 | 18 mm | Manual | Spot Metering

#5 - More water than ever after our record breaking November rainfall.
1/1250 sec | f/4 | ISO 125 | 35 mm | Manual | Spot Metering

Isac - Not a poke-in-the-eye, but all these setting show a 100000% difference from my approach to subjects like this

I note that all these pics are shot as Manual settings - okay if you like using Manual, a right-pain-in-the-posterior for me. After 30 - 40 years of using Manual with film cameras, I don't want to use it again!! (unless it's a special shot) "A" or "S" modes are fine for many things - "S" being selected many times to show or freeze movement ~ but nothing like 1/4000s to freeze tree leaves, no ... that's unnecessary for an 18mm or 35mm lens

For me these days - mostly - I am selecting those apertures where I know that I will receive full corner-to-corner sharpness -plus- whatever DoF I need for that shot. Therefore mostly F4,0 to F6,3 gets used. Either side of this (mostly) is for DoF reasons

Equally, for "S" stuff, I know a rough shutter speed per focal length to freeze movement -and- confirm no camera shake, therefore anything from 1/50 to 1/1500sec gets used. Either side of these settings are for 'specials'

I have mentioned over the years that I use "intelligent Program mode" for about 80% of my stuff. Maybe it's coz I'm getting old ... maybe it's coz I have had too many years of film-camera-Manual, but these days I reckon that we have so much excellent electronic smarts inside the camera, it's a pity not to make use of them.

Most times - I will sweep the scene, zoom in and out on things - and get multiple meter readings from significant items. I will determine a metering point and half-press to get a 'generic' exposure setting, -then- a) if needed, I will use the rolly-wheel to alter the speed or aperture to something else, but more it's b) I use the EV +/- to modify the 'generic' to end up with whatever I want to create. Often this is within 1-stop from the metered 'generic' setting, sometimes more than 1-stop esp when I want to concentrate on specular highlights on leaves or flowers, for example

Overall it's something that works for me "in me old age"
Thoughts - comments?

Phil

[Isac]

Very much appreciated Phil, a good detailed delivery of your setup and also your "over time" acquired expertise. I played with different settings a lot on the 7D and now the 7Dii. I'm used to manual mode and I always use back button focus. With the panoramas I set ISO, aperture and shutter speed so I get consistency throughout the shot so I don't get colour problems during the stitching process. I start at the bottom of the tree and work upwards to the top with 4-7 shots. It works for me. The 1/4000th was because I had set it for some bird action shots and didn't wind it back. When I saw the result, I thought it looked OK - surprisingly! I'll give your settings a crack and see what happens, although your "A" and "S" is not a familiar setting on my gear.

[Ozzie_Traveller]

Hi Isac

P-A-S-M modes on most cameras ...... tho some call it P-Av-Tv-M which does not roll off the tongue easily

But then there are the hi-level pro cameras (maybe like yours) that don't have a mode dial, but you have a settings screen to meander thru

Whatever suits - use it
Phil

[Isac]

Cheers Phil. The 9 dial modes on the 7Dii are Auto-P-Tv-Av-M-B-C1-C2-C3. The C1-C3 are for custom settings. I have my C3 set to Tv for BIF (1/3200th, f:6.3, Auto ISO) C2 to Av (f:5.6, Auto ISO) and C3 to Manual (1/500th, f:3.5, Auto ISO). I always use Back-Button-Focus. I've never gone back to half press for donkey's years.

[HansE]

Have no problem using the smaller apertures unlike some.
F13 for this manually focused to get a good DOF



Trial Bay Goal South West Rocks

[Isac]

I don't remember 1967 Hans - I was only sweet 16!

[Isac]

Just a hint with that Trial Bay shot, use my Dodge and Burm action and paint soft white brush (Opacity 25, Flow 25) over the dark pine trees and building. Really lifts it. Also the water is flowing downhill to the right

[HansE]

All within my generous allowed tollerance Will touch it up if it makes the yearbook. Thanks Isac