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I have had a bit of a play with IR using filters and Photoshop, but after seeing K1W1 's IR images I am seriously considering having a spare body converted/modified for Infra Red photography. Just exactly what is required to modify a camera for IR photography?
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These are with a Kodak DCS200ir. 1992.
Most cameras have an "IR Absorbing Filter" in front of the sensor, which must be removed. This tends to be fairly thick, and in the optical path- SO it must be replaced by a glass filter of about the same thickness that allows IR to come through.
https://www.lifepixel.com/tutorials/...on-coolpix-995
The above link is a good guide for converting an older Nikon coolpix. I did this 15+ years ago for a Coolpix 950, gave it to a student.
10+ years ago, I bought an Olympus EP-2 converted to Full-Spectrum. Several places offer conversion services, and converted cameras. Often you can find a used one from someone upgrading. -
Magenta filter with full-spectrum camera, my daughter used to call it the "Martian Camera" because it made her look like she was on Mars.
I took these with the Full-Spectrum converted Nikon Coolpix 950, around 2005 or so. I followed instructions similar to the link, used a piece of clear glass then used external filters over the lens. This is with a Magenta filter that blocks Green light. The red in the leaves is IR showing up in the red channel. Green is blocked. I wanted an "Infrared Ektachrome" look.
When you select a filter to replace the IR Blocking filter you need to decide if you want IR only, Deep IR only, or Full-Spectrum. I've opted for Full-Spectrum in my three converted cameras.Comment
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Thank you for that information Brian, I will investigate further and see if I can get my old Canon 5D converted professionally.Comment
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I had mine converted at Camera Clinic in Easy St Collingwood. I had a 720nm conversion done it took about 14 days after It was dropped it in.Originally posted by Grumpy John View Post
Have a look at their web site and if you have any questions ring and speak to Wayne who will answer any questions. I’m very happy with my conversion the camera came back with a custom white balance setting that gives me pretty good files to work with and I generally just put the files into Silver Efex Pro to tweak. I used one of my old Fuji cameras rather than a DSLR so I set it to a monochrome simulation in camera which means I see pretty close to what I get through the EVF or LCD. Obviously with a DSLR you can’t do anything about the colour view in the viewfinder.
With a conversion as opposed to an IR filter you use the same exposures you would normally. If you go the filter route you have very long exposures which means a tripod and limits your landscape shooting ability due to movement of vegetation.
I went 720nm because it gives me the black and white base setiing I wanted. 590nm allows some colour and is suitable for people who want to do false colour IR. 890nm gives you true black and white. With 720nm if I want I can use a filter to give me a 890nm effect if I want.
Camera Clinic
https://www.camera-clinic.com/index....-modifications
Kolari vision in the USA have a good lens database so you can see how the lenses you own perform. Many lenses are only useable at some apertures or not useable at all due to hot spotting.
Kolari vision lens database
https://kolarivision.com/articles/lens-hotspot-list/
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I have done a bit of research on infrared conversion and think that an 820nm filter is what I am after. Of course any recommendation from IR users would be greatly appreciated.Comment
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How involved the modification is depends on the camera.Originally posted by Grumpy John View Post
Some old Sony models have a switchable 'Nightshot' mode which removes the hot mirror, but many such models have annoying restrictions (my DSC V1 only shots at high iso & wide aperture in nightshot. It also seems it won't shoot if the filter adapter is screwed right in). I think this must be the easiest conversion, but the restrictions are somewhat limiting.
Several sigma DSLRs have a user removable dust filter that also works as the hot mirror. It's easily removed in a couple of minutes.
The above two are the only easily reversible options I've used
Removing the hot mirror from a kodak point & shoot was something I managed in a lunch hour without any manual. The sony point & shoot I tried proved to have a more complicated case & I gave up on the effort. I've never dared to try converting more complicated cameras myself the point & shoot models only cost £3 each, It's pretty rare to find a interchangeable lens camera for less than £50.
When I got my first converted camera I brought a full spectrum one someone else had been using & got it for less than the cost of a conversion! I still use the camera today
Compulsive photographic dabbler.Comment
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The beauty of IR is that as its not "real life" there is no compulsion to be accurate with colours or effects it is entirely up to the photographer what they want to present. As a person who tends to prefer black and white I am not really interested in the false colour side of IR photography but I have seen some great results. I tend to go more to the monochrome look.
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